March 23, 2012

Fun Hogs & Jail House Trunks



I've had the pleasure of working with Jed Noll and his team over the past year- promoting the next generation of the Noll Surfboards brand and running support for the collaboration with Billabong and launch of the run of 200 pairs of collectors edition Jail House Trunks, which are signed by Greg and can be bid on now.

Watching this film reminds me just how lucky I am to have been touched by the Noll family- both as a fan, friend and surfer.  I remember the first time I saw "Riding Giants"-  I believe it was the summer between my freshman and sophomore year of college.  As a complete kook who had only been surfing for two years, I lived for the mornings and evenings when I could pick off corners on my 9' Bic board on the south shore of Martha's Vineyard.  Floundering in the lukewarm waters was pure bliss.

When I hear Greg tell his tales of hell-raising, exploration, simple living, and massive rides on the North Shore, the hair stood up on the back of my neck.  Few people have the ability to put into words the unadulterated joy that can be found riding the energy of the ocean.

Greg's smile, honesty, and no-appologies mantra, solidified that I had found my home and soul in surfing. Everything that he embodies-- living life to the fullest and settling for nothing less-- is exactly the doctrine I want to follow during my time here on earth.

"Catch as many waves as you can. Enjoy yourself, drink hard, and screw your brains out-I'm not sorry for being a fun hog all my life."

Aloha, and thanks to the Noll Ohana for keeping it real.