This seems to be the general consensus from the majority of Bay Area surfers- yet I have to disagree. Triple overhead OB and firing Steamers certainly ratchets up the adrenaline meter- but this summer has provided me with more decent, enjoyable swell than I found throughout the entire "el nino" season of 2010.The Pacific Northwest was assaulted constantly this winter. Western facing shores saw some unforgettable stretches of swell, but generally things were just a bit too wild to constructively ride. The result: sand bars up and down Nor Cal are now primed for southern swell.
Yesterday, as a 3' swell was lapping at the shores of OB and Linda Mar, we enthusiastically drove further south in hopes of scoring some meager scraps. Rounding the bend below Devils Slide our eyes feasted upon the stretch of beach at the edge of Montara.
Clean, peaky chest high waves filed through the sandbar at irregular intervals and every now and then a small barrel roared down the line. Jumping over the white-water breach break, we paddled out through a rip to join two others in the line-up. With a little patient persistence I fell into a rhythm and caught wave after wave into the beach, hopped out, and jumped back into the rip to do it again.
With the water finally warm enough to enjoy long sessions without boots, gloves, or a hood, and long, calm evenings, I have to profess my love for summer. Thank you southern hemisphere for providing whatever you can this summer- I'll be happy to put in the extra effort to meet you upon arrival. Flatness is only a state of mind.
And if it does become completely unrideable, then I'll put my faith in the butterfly effect. Keep on sneezing Australia!
Sneezing In Ultra Slow Motion - Watch more Funny Videos
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