Fun Hogs & Jail House Trunks

I've had the pleasure of working with Jed Noll and his team over the past year- promoting the next generation of the Noll Surfboards brand and running support for the collaboration with Billabong and launch of the run of 200 pairs of collectors edition Jail House Trunks, which are signed by Greg and can be bid on now.

Watching this film reminds me just how lucky I am to have been touched by the Noll family- both as a fan, friend and surfer.  I remember the first time I saw "Riding Giants"-  I believe it was the summer between my freshman and sophomore year of college.  As a complete kook who had only been surfing for two years, I lived for the mornings and evenings when I could pick off corners on my 9' Bic board on the south shore of Martha's Vineyard.  Floundering in the lukewarm waters was pure bliss.

When I hear Greg tell his tales of hell-raising, exploration, simple living, and massive rides on the North Shore, the hair stood up on the back of my neck.  Few people have the ability to put into words the unadulterated joy that can be found riding the energy of the ocean.

Greg's smile, honesty, and no-appologies mantra, solidified that I had found my home and soul in surfing. Everything that he embodies-- living life to the fullest and settling for nothing less-- is exactly the doctrine I want to follow during my time here on earth.

"Catch as many waves as you can. Enjoy yourself, drink hard, and screw your brains out-I'm not sorry for being a fun hog all my life."

Aloha, and thanks to the Noll Ohana for keeping it real.

Liquid Nation Ball 8- I Love Boobies!

After bidding my car goodbye (for the meantime) and clawing my way out of the desert, I bombed back to the coast just in time to make the Liquid Nation Ball 8. Hosted by Reef co-founder Fernando Aguirre at his waterfront La Jolla home, the attendees were a mix of surf industry elite, board/art collectors and ocean loving do-gooder's.

As one of the largest fundraisers for the Surf Industry Manufacturers Association's (SIMA) Humanitarian Fund, the night's auction featured an array of rare surf art, collector's items, and exotic surf trips. A one-of-a-kind hand-shaped Jed Noll balsa board paired with limited edition Greg Noll jail-house trunks, signed by the legend himself, was one of the top bid packages bringing in $10,000 for the 13 featured charities in attendence.

Aside from being a kick ass party with tasty hawaiian style bbq, hearty tequila concoctions, and relaxed ocean grooves- Liquid Nation also honors those people who make a genuine positive impact on the greater surfing community as a whole. This year's SIMA Humanitarian of the Year Award was presented to Shaney Jo Darden (blurry picture above), Co-Founder and CEO of Keep A Breast Foundation.

For those of you who don't know and aren't sporting the incredibly trendy "I Love Boobies!" bracelet- found in boutiques, surf and board shops nationwide- Keep A Breast is a non profit working to "eradicate breast cancer by exposing young people to methods of prevention, early detection and support".

The ever-bubbly Shaney Jo was introduced by her close friend, X-Games personality Sal Masekela. Sal spoke admiringly of her energy, love and dedication to increasing breast cancer awareness among kids- no small feat when considering that she has effectively made young people pay attention to and engage with a traditionally avoided or taboo subject. Marketing genius-- I think so.

Fernando Aguirre in his pink (breast cancer awareness) $$ pants introduces the Noll board

Sal Masekela presents Shaney Jo Darden

Jed Noll with his hand-shaped balsa board

Check out the woven stringers and detailing-- I'd like two for my kitchen

Boards and one-of-a-kind memorabilia hang from every wall and ceiling in the Aguirre Household

Noll Surfboards-- First Peek

Surf history often treads a fine line between fact, fiction, and fable. None of the stories may be more monumental, or well documented, than the early days on the North Shore of Oahu. Greg Noll and a small group of other surfing pioneers spent a few fleeting years basking in this remote paradise, living simply and experimenting with the art of big wave riding.

Visiting Noll Surfboards in San Clemente presents an unusual opportunity to touch history first hand, while catching a glimpse into the future of surfboard design that is being shaped by the next wave of the Noll Ohana (Hawaiian for “family”).

Boards used by Greg while living on the North Shore hang lazily from the rafters- as if patiently awaiting the next session of pumping winter surf- while the diverse mix of classic foam shapes, super-rare fine-wood recreations, and high-performance long and short boards that are currently being perfected by Greg Noll’s son Jed, himself a renowned shaper, line the walls of the shaping bays, gallery and shop.

The Noll Surboards sign welcomes all to the sunny Orange County shop.

Upon arrival we were met by Jed Noll (left) and Steve Thomas, as well as the rest of the Noll Surfboards team.

Note: Miki Dora’s trunks, stolen by Greg on the North Shore, hang on the wall behind the guys… history is everywhere in this shop.

This is where the magic happens. Shaping Bay #1.

“It takes 600 nails to piece this classic wooden paddle board together.” –Jed Noll

An unfinished balsa/redwood/koa masterpiece in the making.

Each of these one-of-a-kind Noll longboards is modeled after a different print from a series of board colors sketched by Laura Noll during the ’60s.

Jed explaining the evolution of the surfboard.

Steve tells tales as Gordon ponders the beauties at hand. Miki Dora– Da Cat, prowls overhead.

Greg Noll was the first shop-owner in the world to sell skateboards. Element’s line of throwback decks and trucks pay homage.

The Pipeline Board. Da Bull meets third reef.

The afternoon was topped off with plate lunches (Hawaiian staple-- get the mac balls with your meat, nuff said) and a LB session at San Onofre. I rode a modern Noll Design, leashless, and like a true hack, swam in after my board twice. Good times.