Carmel Beach, CA

Two hours south of San Francisco is the little, not so well hidden town of Carmel. This cute artist community, packed with second and third homes of the upper-elite, boasts great dining, galleries, and a phenomenal white sand beach planted by god (and an annual installment of fine white sand delivered by dump trucks) for the purpose of unadulterated (or adulterated) romance.

What one might find surprising about this town is it that the expansive beach offers one of the best beach breaks in Northern California. Just off-shore is a thick kelp forest which effectively grooms incoming swell and as the waves meet the sandy shallows a shallow, hollow wave is formed. The aqua marine water is of some of the clearest I've found in NorCal and the proximity to Big Sur and Santa Cruz keep the area from getting too much attention from surfers traversing the coast.

This past weekend I scored two late evening sessions, dishing up a substantial helping of both lefts and rights. While I didn't get completely barreled- I did have a hell of a time on the fast, playful waves. The video below shows Carmel Beach on a slightly bigger day than when I was there, but the wave quality is quite similar.

If the surf is no good here take a scenic drive north or south to one of the more exposed beaches in Monterey or Pfeiffer State Park in Big Sur.

For post-session relaxing and romancing-- enjoy some grog at one of the many beach bonfires blazing on the beach, or take a walk into the heart of the town to one of the many busy restaurants, such as Clint Eastwood's own Hog's Breath Inn.

Any other favorite spots out there that offer such quality culture and romantic atmosphere?

Guardian of the Bay

Baykeeper, the environmental group dedicated to reversing the environmental degradation of the past and promote new strategies and policies to protect the water quality of the San Francisco Bay, recently announced that 90 percent of Bay Area beaches received a clean bill of health for the summer. It attributes higher water quality to improvements to sewage systems funded by a series of clean-beach bonds that California voters have passed over the last decade. It goes on to mention that during the rainy season (winter) most beaches pose a serious health risk from raw sewage run-off. These health risks include intestinal problems, ear infections, skin rashes and respiratory ailments.

I'm not sure if this release is a pat on the back to voters, with hopes of future support on Baykeeper initiatives, but wouldn't it be fair to say that the rainy season washes away most of the pathogens so that by the summer the beaches should be safe for use?

Baykeeper is smart. This group of activists and lawyers sue companies around the bay regularly to promote better industrial practices while taking home a profit. I can't help to feel that the settlements they negotiate require only marginal levels of compliance for the big businesses/polluters. The good news is that anyone who is ambitious enough to decipher such laws as the Clean Water Act, Clean Air Act, or Prop 65, can take these businesses to court and force them to comply- while making a nice chunk of change for themself.

Baykeeper does follow through on a noble initiative, but it does leave me wanting. There is still too much being dumped inconsequentially into the Bay and, as the Gulf is showing, too much at stake. Either way- the summer does offer the best time for foggy adventures and decent water quality in Nor Cal - so if you do plan to head to the beach make sure you hit those beaches which scored highest in our area according to SFGate.

The following Bay Area beaches received A's or B's, year-round, for water quality, according to Heal the Bay:

San Mateo County

-- Rockaway Beach

-- Montara State Beach

-- San Gregorio State Beach

-- Coyote Point

East Bay

-- Alameda Point

-- Most of Crown Beach

San Francisco

-- Aquatic Park

-- China Beach

-- Ocean Beach near Sloat

Marin

-- Every beach, including Stinson, Muir, Bolinas and Drake's

Sonoma

-- Every beach

And be sure to stay away from these Dumps.

These beaches received D's or F's for at least part of the year:

San Francisco

-- Baker Beach near Lobos Creek

San Mateo

-- Lakeshore Park

Contra Costa

-- Keller Beach, Richmond

I'm not sure how Linda Mar scores, but I'm sure I still have some poop in my eyes and ears from this winter, yaaa ummmmm...

Fresh FISH!

Some of my most memorable summer nights have involved a solid helping of crisp golden beer, balanced by course after course of slowly barbecued goodness. No matter what genre of meat or produce you plan to throw on the barbie, the Bay Area offers close proximity to the freshest produce one could ask for. If fish, mussels, oysters, or crab, are on the menu for your next gathering with family and friends- I definitely suggest you take the time to trek up or down to coast to procure your goods from a local seafood purveyor on the front line.

There are a variety of spots around the Bay to pick up seafood from the source, and if you find yourself on the peninsula, I'd suggest checking out the Fish Market just off the docks of the Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay. Today, after enjoying a phenomenal lunch on the patio at the HMB Brewery, we walked over to the Princeton Fish Market and surveyed the extensive menu of crustaceans and fish presented on the white board. We stood open mouthed trying to decipher what quantities would satisfy 10 hungry heads, and were soon helped by the busy workers who packed 4 pounds of mussels, a few pounds of gnarly large oysters, and a 6.5 lb salmon on ice for us.

Once evening rolled around, we kicked things off by throwing the oysters on the grill. The grill master and a few accomplices tried to nonchalantly slurp more than their share, but their cover was blown and soon the whole crew gathered around in a frenzy. Overzealous tongues were burned- luckily there was enough Skinny Dip and Sam Adams Summer Ale to keep things under control.

For the next round we steamed the mussels in a large pot, while the beer soaked salmon grilled in tinfoil. When it was finally ready, the moist salmon slid easily off the bone and we had more than enough to go around. Keep it simple. Take it slow. Enjoy the long, lingering summer nights. And remember, finish with more beer for guaranteed success.

Little Hairy- Part 3

Following our excursion at Fort Ross we drove the seven or so miles back to Jenner and pulled in to the swanky Rivers End Resturaunt and Inn. Inside we procured a few beers from a gregarious bartender and headed to the back deck, situated high above the mouth of the Russian River. The remaining sunlight felt warm on my face as a light breeze stirred the trees below. Conversation lingered on travels to come as my eyes danced along the shore in search of good waves. I had brought my board and hole-riddled wetsuit along on this trip in case we happened upon some swell- but you know what they say about bringing umbrellas, condoms, and the like.

Pushing my lust for waves aside I took a sip of Boont Amber Ale, the flagship brew from the Anderson Valley Brewing Company. This ale is a solid blend of rugged hoppiness and smooth malts- the perfect beer for winding down at the end of the day while enjoying a surreal NorCal sunset. If you ever have the chance to stop by this outstanding brewery on the road to Mendocino, enjoy a beer in the well manicured beer garden, then try your luck on their 9-hold Frisbee Golf course. What more could a nature and beer loving fool want? They certainly got it right. Their brews are well known in these parts, each label distinguished by a lovable and infamous bear/deer mascot, what's it called again? Oh yea- a Beer, ha.

As the sun dipped dangerously close to he horizon we loaded into the convertible and drove back to Little Hairys. The tide was much lower this time around, so trekking down to the beach was considerably easier. The last of the margaritas were made and we were just about ready to throw the brats on our trusty cooking rock when an unfamiliar, blinding light snapped on.

The ranger had caught us with our pants down. We had almost completely unwound and here he was to enforce the law on us unruly civilians. The night before the park service had come to the top of the cove and relayed a message that was something along the lines of "no camping/camp fires" via a megaphone. Tonight they were back again with a heavier intent to enforce law and order.

Park Ranger Michael was a reasonable and friendly fellow from the Sacramento area who mentioned to me that he spent his off days "lookin for women". Apparently they are a scarce breed in these parts. Dodger, however, had a sneaking suspicion that he was up to no good- noted by his low intermittent bark whenever Ranger Mike came close.

We had two choices. Stay the night and incur a plethora of expensive fines, or hike our gear out immediately in the pitch dark. Being that most of us are a part of the classy poor we decided on the latter. We packed as quickly as possible and I lead the charge up the skree field. This route was closer than our original trail, though I'm not sure it was any less sketchy.

The bottom half of the treck consisted of small to medium stair-like hops adjacent to and over a slowly running creek, but soon we were throwing our bags ahead and pulling ourselves over substantial boulders. Then the real trouble started. Loose rock turned into a loose dirt and the grade became steeper and steeper. Carefully traversing in a slow amble to the top, we caught ourselves many times to avoid slipping and falling a few hundred feet. I stopped intermittently to shine my light backward to show the way for the crew in my footsteps.

Once I reached the summit of the bluff I unloaded my bags and the exhausted Dodger and jogged back to assess the state of the rest of the crew. We were all huffing heavily, some of us enjoying the adventure more than others. The Ranger had hauled our heavy-ass cooler of beer and meat about half way up so I relieved gratefully him and made sure that a few other smaller bags were taken care of.

Thankfully the whole crew emerged from the depths unscathed, but especially ready for a relaxing rest of the evening. The rangers were kind enough to secure a spot for us at Bodega Dunes, a camp site ten miles down the road and sent us on our merry, slightly intoxicated way.

We arrived at the dunes right around 11pm and scavenged for enough wood to build a fire and enjoyed the most delicious semi-cooked brats I've ever had. We serenaded each other with tunes ranging from folk, to rock n' roll, to new age-indy preachings, while swigging cans of Simpler Times beer and cheap wine. Marsh mellows were toasted and stories told, and soon we were buzzed enough to crash.

It may not have been the wilderness adventure we had planned on, but it sure did offer enough of the unexpected to keep things interesting. Next time we'll just have to hike a little further out, push our luck, and find another diamond in the California rough.

Fort Ross- A Russian Stronghold in Nor Cal

Traveling north from Jenner, past our little cove of solitude, you twist and turn from sea-level to outstanding heights above the great Pacific. If you look closely as you round one of the bends, you might just notice a nondescript wooden fence about 200 meters long, that beckons from years past.

This recreated redwood stronghold is Fort Ross. Constructed by a team of Russians and Alaskans in 1812, the settlement was built to claim territory and establish a fur tradepost in "New Albion", the territory north of Spanish California. The Fort was constructed in a matter of weeks and, to the chagrin of the Spaniards, would be home to the Russians and Alaskans for the next 29 years.

We happened upon this place on Sunday afternoon as we took a leisurely afternoon drive to escape the wind and sun of the beach. The recreated fort features a couple long houses with commoners quarters, work shops, and communal dining areas, a central well, the Generals house, a chapel, and a two guard towers facing the ocean.


The cove below the settlement served as a semi exposed harbor during the occupation, and I could see why they would have chosen this spot at the time. It offers decent access to the rest of the coast for trade, yet is far enough from San Francisco to make it difficult for the existing powers to easily strike and force an outsider group to leave.

While wandering around the settlement I was in awe of how rugged and new things were in those days. Every corner you turned offered more possibilities and opportunity for personal riches. It is no wonder that this country fosters such strong desires to create the biggest pile for yourself. Our whole existence was founded upon the idea that if you just went a little farther down the coast then you would have a place of your own, and all the resources that you and your family would ever need.

I imagined myself out there 200 years ago working on a ship and hunting fur for a meager wage. The closest city 4 days away. The unknown, excitement and danger around every corner. I could disappear into a valley and build a home, grow crops, fish, and live off the land. What an exciting and daunting time that must have been.

As we drove out of the rolling State Park I looked back at the ocean and impressive wooden compound. The era of exploration may have ended, but there is always another cove and secluded wave around the bend. So make time to drive up Highway 1, put the top down, pull in to random roads, tip your hat to history, and steal away with a little appreciation for what was, and what will never be.