Where Do You Max Out?

 Comfortable on a Small day at Bells Point, Martha's Vineyard, MA

There seems to be an unspoken rule among serious surfers in Northern California that respect can only be gained by charging the biggest waves possible. This is scary on many levels.  Maybe its a competitive paranoia that I posses, but the need to go big, BIG, BIGGER, seems to be well ingrained in surf culture and it certainly seems to be reinforced by the hyper-adrenaline infused media.

I've been surfing up and down Highway 1 for the past four years and still get butterflies every time the swell surges to 8+ feet. I grew up in Massachusetts, started surfing at age 17, and swim as gracefully as a cat-nipped up Siamese kitten. I have no business paddling out at Mavericks. Ever.

I feel a burning desire to push myself to the next level, but where do my abilities max out?  From the adrenaline overdose and ensuing numbing fear that I've experience on double overhead days at Ocean Beach, well I seem to have found it.  Maybe that's what growing up is all about: pushing your potential, while maintaining the awareness and intuition to call it a day, crack a beer and relax on the beach when things get beyond your comfort zone.  And to be honest, I'm okay with that.

Opportunity Knocks When The Mind is Engaged

I’m hit by a small wave of electric euphoria as I pace around the monstrous mountain home saddled in the valley outside of Park City.  I’ve been back from Burning Man for a mere six days and there’s a chance that the event, whether or not I felt it at the time, has inspired a bit of creative thinking and vision as I begin brainstorming where to align my energy in the near future.

You know how they say-- you never know when opportunity will knock at your door? Well, it happened to me quite literally the other day.  Heidi with Roots of Peace knocked on my door at our Sausalito office while in search of another address- and during our brief encounter- I learned of her fantastic “land mines to vines” non-profit.  When I told her what we do, she exclaimed that she just so happened to be looking for a PR firm herself. Cool initiative, cool lady, great coincidence I thought to myself.

Then, early the next morning, I met Pops.  A PHD at the American University (his real name is Terry Sankar), Pops is an enlightened French Guiana transplant who moved to NYC a couple decades ago to follow his passion for painting.  During his studies at NYU he was fascinated by “white people’s willingness to part with money for a piece of paper with some color on it” and decided to steer his studies toward psychology.  The dominoes since then lead him to emerge as a forefront mind in wind & alternative energy, and spearhead a wind turbine design project which has potential to rock the field as we know it.

The spark in my mind was ignited by the realization that my current skill-set and values may just have found a prospective niche.  Small start-ups such as these need more than publicity; they need an inspired participant and voice to help introduce their products, explain the greater missions and drive sales.  These are all needs that I can absolutely fulfill.  The path is never straightforward or easy, but it’s exciting when a potential course unveils itself and a malleable bearing can be set. 

The Session Resumes

                             A left in Big Sur. Photo Credit- Jeff Howard

I broke my nose again. It's not a big deal, but it has kept me out of the water for over a week. Before that I was surfing semi-regularly. One of those days involved a dreamy, cold left-hander in Big Sur. And before that, I went to Mexico for a wild solo adventure in Sayulita and a wedding in Pueto Vallarta-- but that was after I met a lovely and charming young lady.

Photo Credit- Jeff Howard

Well, really, a whole heap of experiences have come and gone since I last threw words down this dusty corridor of information. None of which have been lacking flavor, spice and intrigue. It's just that, well, I neglected the arts.

That tends to happen when you're preoccupied with work, the rich nectar of romance and challenging yourself to growth mentally and "just be" in the moment. These things dominate time and energy. Anyway, that romance has lead me back to the art, because it is art in itself, and thus breeds more art.

The art has been in the form of a dome, as well as some writing, some planning and a tid-bit of music.  I even picked up a camera last weekend in Mendocino while Lauren danced upon the waves.  It turned out to be a blast.  These are just a few of the shots captured by my novice hand at the lens.

I head back to the playa early next week for another round of art and weird on industrial scale. I hope to find some motivation to paint during the downtime, of which I suppose there will be plenty, as it is predicted to be "the dustiest year ever".

I will also be taking notes.  I have my second assignment for Adventure Sports Journal and plan to tackle the survival tactics necessary to enjoy and thrive at the event, and to participate in a range of events as I analyze the human need for challenge and competition.  It is sure to be colorful regardless of what I find. More to come, after we burn it... TO THE GROUND.

Fun Hogs & Jail House Trunks

I've had the pleasure of working with Jed Noll and his team over the past year- promoting the next generation of the Noll Surfboards brand and running support for the collaboration with Billabong and launch of the run of 200 pairs of collectors edition Jail House Trunks, which are signed by Greg and can be bid on now.

Watching this film reminds me just how lucky I am to have been touched by the Noll family- both as a fan, friend and surfer.  I remember the first time I saw "Riding Giants"-  I believe it was the summer between my freshman and sophomore year of college.  As a complete kook who had only been surfing for two years, I lived for the mornings and evenings when I could pick off corners on my 9' Bic board on the south shore of Martha's Vineyard.  Floundering in the lukewarm waters was pure bliss.

When I hear Greg tell his tales of hell-raising, exploration, simple living, and massive rides on the North Shore, the hair stood up on the back of my neck.  Few people have the ability to put into words the unadulterated joy that can be found riding the energy of the ocean.

Greg's smile, honesty, and no-appologies mantra, solidified that I had found my home and soul in surfing. Everything that he embodies-- living life to the fullest and settling for nothing less-- is exactly the doctrine I want to follow during my time here on earth.

"Catch as many waves as you can. Enjoy yourself, drink hard, and screw your brains out-I'm not sorry for being a fun hog all my life."

Aloha, and thanks to the Noll Ohana for keeping it real.

A Powderflop at Snowbird

The snow finally showed up across the west over the weekend.  Following Outdoor Retailer we tackled Snowbird where we were rewarded with a full day of fluffy powder and face shots.  This was one of the more memorable lines.  No one was holding back.

Photo of the Week: Right near the Beach Boya

"Apparently there is nothing that cannot happen today".

-Mark Twain

New Bike Shop Resource Lauched

When it comes to buying a bike, your local bike shop is an invaluable resource for making an informed decision.  Not only can the seasoned mechanic/bike fanatic give you a clear understanding of the various options and functions of each bike and component, but the access to riding a bike before you purchase it so you can find a match that truly "feels" right, will ensure that you don't buy wheels that leave you less than satisfied.

GreatBikeShops.com, a free online directory of over 6,000 bicycle shops across North America, has launched in December to help you navigate to these bike experts regardless of where you are. "Local shops are at the heart of the bicycle riding community," said Chris Greenwood, the creator of the web site. "Whether you're looking to make a purchase, in need of a repair, or in search of a recommendation for some great trails, we connect you to someone who can help."

So if you're like me, and have been putting off getting the mountain bike of your dreams, check them out.  In this unusually mild winter it might be just the right investment to keep your body in shape and spirits up as we wait... and wait... and wait... for snow.

Dane Signs Off- A Letter From the Road

Within the majority of sports- competition is the only means of making a name.  Lucky for Dane Reynolds, surfing is one of those unique arenas that dances delicately on the line between battle front and art form.   It is outside the confines and  narrow parameters of the World Tour where Dane really excels, and for those of us who are far removed from the competitive environment of surfing (and generally don't care about the circus), the announcement that he is officially leaving the tour means more cutting-edge freesurf footage for our daily pleasure.

Watching the worlds best innovate, create and inspire- not by taking home a trophy, but by pushing boundaries, holds significantly more weight than watching dull, drawn out heats and arbitrary points stack up. Trust me, if any of his recent projects are any indication, it should be fun.

At the prodding of a variety of mainstream outlets, Dane was compelled to share his thoughts and hopes on this move, and we're glad he did.  Check out his post from Marine Layer Productions below.  We wish him luck on this new adventure, and look forward to the footage along the way.


From Dane:

i've been getting some pressure from various people and/or websites to write something, sorta like an official statement concerning my exit from the world tour. my dismount. my pirouette. 'an opportunity level with your fans.' that's what they tell me. people wanna know whats goin on. be up to date. i can understand that. i like knowing whats going on. i like being up to date.

one thing to remember is that i have a heart and i have bones and muscle and skin and eyes and teeth. i have emotions. sometimes i act according to emotions. sometimes i think and make a conscious decision. i usually do that. in fact i usually think too much. sorta neurotic. i make mistakes, and i deal with them. i have fears and i have anxiety and i have insecurities and i have vices which i often give in to. social situations enhance all of these qualities. i could probably use some discipline, and lots of things bum me out, but generally i'm happy, and i enjoy making other people happy. sometimes all it takes is a smile. sometimes it takes a lot more than that. i try to be honest. especially with myself. i know that i'm fortunate. i'm sitting here and i have a pulse and i can breath and i hear birds outside and the buzz of the freeway and the suns about to set and it's a friday. that's fortune. i also know that i'm fortunate in many other ways. three brands support me and enable me to surf every day and travel and eat and have a house to live in. in return i represent their company in a positive way. i feel like i do a decent job. but that's obviously up for debate. surfing is my passion in life. i always think about how lucky we are that there's even an ocean, and its not too hot or too turbulent and it's not made of acid that burns our skin off. and how lucky is it that the land tapers into the ocean in just the right way so that when lumps of energy approach from a thousand miles away they gently rise up and crash at just the perfect speed so that we can wave our little arms and match their speed and hang at the crest weightless for just a second before sliding down the face. free to ride it in any way you please. and there's not just one of them. there's tons of them. they keep coming. all different sizes shapes and speeds. everyday they're different. endless joy.

there are of course a number of things that get in the way of feeling this joy: crowds, twitter impostors, eggy locals, eggy surf bloggers, overzealous surf photographers, chris mauro and rip curl contests, just to name a few. that was sort of a joke, but not really, and besides, surfing isn't just about joy. it's also a sport. an industry. and we must not mix business with pleasure. by accepting endorsements i assume a certain responsibility. some think that responsibility is to compete. to put on a jersey and crush my opponent. despite a flimsy one dimensional criteria and an inconsistent playing field that causes the end result to rarely come down to performance alone. maybe that's the fun of it. i don't know. i do enjoy it. but do i believe in it? enough to dedicate the better part of my life to it? or is that irrelevant because it's my responsibility? i didn't have to answer this question because knee surgery in january answered for me. by the time i was healing i was already gone. three buttons to the wind. adventure over responsibility. career suicide! blowing my potential. wasting my talent. i heard the buzz.

in all reality i was being constructive in a different way, traveling to a variety of locations and pushing personal boundaries in an attempt to learn, grow, and improve. it's not as immediate as a contest webcast, and heaven forbid its enjoyable, but in the end it's equally important and i've been neglecting it for too long because i was in a comfy space where contest results alone were satisfying. in order to be successful in surf competition you need to refine your act into a nice little package presentable in a 30 minute period in a number of trying conditions. you need to kill the variables. trim the loose ends. stay on your board. know your equipment. wave selection. endlessly try to revisit motions that score the most points. there are obviously exceptions to this. kelly slaters full rotation slob air reverse in new york. that was not a motion revisited and it was epic. on the beach afterwards: 'so kelly slater, how was that slob air reverse!' 'oh, is that what that's called?' also john john florence and gabriel medina. maybe it's only a matter of time before they refine their act, but for now i'm really impressed with their competitive success despite such rawness. rawness is good. surfing with john john this year in japan was enlightening. it was like every wave he was exploring new territory. i wanna explore new territory! i wanna unwind! by the end of the trip i felt improved and rejuvenated and then crunch! i busted my ribs at the mercy of a fresh typhoon swell. nearly drowned. another month out of the water. gotta pay to play. especially when you're trying to keep up with john john in waves of consequence.

and so here i am. 26. officially off tour. wasted talent. blown potential. refusing responsibility. 'all he wants to do is sit at home and play with crayons and ride fucked up boards.' but wait! but wait! that's not true! don't listen to chris mauro. he's a dinosaur. doesn't get it. this may be the end as a wct contender, but its also a new beginning. i feel like a baseball. the skins been carefully pried off and there's a thread and i'm gonna pull it and i'm gonna end up a pile of string on the floor. but then maybe i'll be knit into something more useful, like a sweater. or perhaps something beautiful, like a hand embroidered masterpiece of a deer and two fawn drinking cold clear water out of a creek. but you never know. i hope to achieve some sort of balance. yeah, i do like riding fucked up boards, but i also like doing airs and taking some aggression out on a cutback. and competings rad if you can stay inspired, but rankings and trophy's mean very little to me. i wanna learn, i wanna make things, things of purpose, be productive. travel. new experiences. new sensations. and most importantly explore the outer limits of performance surfing. i'll still compete. but its not going to consume me.


finding this balance will be a challenge. but its just a step in an endless set of steps. a staircase. it's sort of a big step. too big to just hop up. i gotta climb. like, with a rope and safety gear and shit. and i might get there and be bummed out and like my old step better but that's just the mystery of life and i'm happy to experience it. and i'm endlessly in debt to the ones who make it possible. firstly surf fans who have resonated with my surfing for one reason or another, because at the bottom of everything, you're the only reason i'm able to have the sponsorship that allows me to travel and eat and pay the bills and continue surfing. secondly my sponsors: channel islands believed in me from the ripe age of 13 and continue to craft boards that allow me perform at my highest potential and also craft boards that have nothing to do with performance at all, but make you realize how much joy you can get out of a simple high line. i thank quiksilver for their unwavering support, re-signing me during a year of uncertainty and working with me on honest marketing and products. i also thank vans for picking me up. every person on the team is one of my favorite surfers and/or people and i'm honored to be apart of it. there are, of course, hundreds of people worth thanking here, but this is who comes to mind tonight: my girlfriend courtney, for giving me inspiration, giving me perspective, giving me love and giving me treats. blair, for keeping my otherwise maelstrom of a life in order. my parents, for their conflicting views. i don't think i would have done very well in an ordinary functioning family household. my father particularly for dedicating countless weekends driving me up and down the coast to compete. that was a huge sacrifice. also my mom for preaching creativity, fearlessness, and keeping everything bullshit free. and my brother brek for administering many humbling experiences from a very early age. my grandparents, for being probably my biggest fans on earth. particularly grandma bonnie and papa chuck, who come to every surf contest on the west coast. they show up at 7 am to get good parking, even if i surf at 3. and also grandpa bob for giving me his super 8 cameras when i was 18 and instilling a lifelong hobby.

-dane

Charlotte O'Connor Hates Fish

British singer/songwriter Charlotte O'Connor has pipes. In fact, she has style too.  And she's kind of cute.

Lucky for her, Quicksilver noticed. The 21 year old classifies her sound as acoustic tropical soul, and we'd have to agree.   Her lighthearted lyrics and carefree-flow conjures images of swaying palms, warm sun, and playful turquoise waves.  The perfect sound track to rock while enjoying a book between sessions, or on the drive to check out the stars with a special someone.

Look for her debut album "For Kenny" in March 2012.

Look into my Eyes

Hey Kids!  Want a tiny peak into what it's like to drink a mushroom slurpee on the beaches of  Thailand?  Just press play...



And for maximum success, add Thai Redbull.  Now that shit gives you wings... and horns, and hooves, and hairy palms.

Ry Craike Likes Tubes, Merry Xmas from Ocean Beach

The Fallopian Tube from Tom Jennings

Damn Aussies and their anchors. They just make it look so damn easy.  Drop, stall, pump, spit.

NorCal has been on fire lately, and it's looking fantastic for those of you sticking around for the holidays.  Merry Christmas from Ocean Beach. Getjah big drooahps on keedz!

PREMIUM MEMBER SURFLINE FORECAST

Surfline Forecast created by David and effective Tuesday afternoon | Surfline's RATING OF SURF HEIGHTS AND QUALITY

TUESDAY 12/20 GOOD	WEDNESDAY 12/21 FAIR TO GOOD	THURSDAY 12/22 GOOD	FRIDAY 12/23 GOOD	SATURDAY 12/24 FAIR
SURF: 5-8 ft head high to 3 ft overhead	SURF: 8-10 ft 3 ft overhead to double overhead occ. 12 ft	SURF: 6-8 ft + head high + to 3 ft overhead	SURF: 4-7 ft shoulder high to 2 ft overhead	SURF: 8-12 ft + 3 ft overhead to double overhead + occ. 15 ft
WNW swell continues easing, possible 10' sets at standouts in the AM; new WNW swell shows late; small SSW swell	New WNW swell tops out, larger sets at top spots; small SSW swell	WNW swell eases, plus sets possible at top spots early; small SSW swell	Old WNW swell; new SSW swell fills in; new WNW swell builds in overnight	New WNW swell tops out, plus sets possible; small SSW swell; favorable winds but many breaks are maxed out

 

WINDS

Show Wind Details

 

TIDES: Ocean Beach

Show Tide Text  | Future Tide Predictions

WEATHER

SUNNY 48 - 59°F

SUNNY 47 - 60°F

MOSTLY SUNNY 48 - 58°F

CLOUDY 48 - 58°F

PARTLY CLOUDY 50 - 60°F

Wonderful World

It's an amazing planet to be a part of, isn't it?

Have a happy & healthy holiday week of merriment and adventure!

You get the best barrels ever, dude! Remix

You're probably seen the original footage of this brah explaining the finer points of getting barreled... well, here's the auto-tuned remix. EPIC.

Sh*t we Like: Gravis Viking LX Skate Shoe

When it comes to skate shoes- affordability, durability, and simplicity are my main performance concerns.  I understand your $200 Nike 6.0's aren't meant to ever commune with grip tape, but I'm talking about shoes that you'll actually use.  True skate shoes are meant to be beat to shit.  Period. Any style points are an added bonus, which is why I refuse to buy super marked up kicks that I won't feel right trashing.  

The Gravis Viking LX shoe features a suede and premium leather upper, complimented by a sturdy rubber sole.  Fresh out of the box they feel a little stiff, but that can be a good thing when you're relying on rapid responsiveness from your trucks.  The leather/suede construction offers hearty protection from heel to toe, while the internal mesh through the heel box is comfortable and flexible at the right spots.

What got us really stoked about these shoes is that they were found on Deparment of Goods, the Outlet component of Backcountry.com. If you need quality gear- cheap, quick and easy, this site is amazing.  From jackets to kayaks, hats to tents, complete bikes and beyond, it can all be found in one place. So have at 'er.  Go crazy, cuz shippings free for any order over 50 bucks.

Chafe Free Mate!!!

Bonds, good for your sack.

Wipeout Wednesday- John John takes Vans Triple Crown

A solid overhead swell, coupled with consistent offshores made for an entertaining final at Sunset Beach earlier this week. With all the right elements working, it came as little surprise that local Hawaiian ripper John John Florence was on his game and took home the hardware. Check out the plethora of barrels the pro's tucked into, and enjoy your slice of Wednesday destruction at right around the 2:40 mark.

Quick Release

I have the tendency to get pissed off. Frequently. Mostly at nothing.  Especially when the days become shorter and the sky turns gray.

I'm not sure if this is a result of my upbringing, individual temperament, or environmental stresses, but the bottom line is that anger is an inherent quality that no one is entirely without.

As Twain so elloquently proclaimed-- "Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured."

While destructive in nature, awareness of its existence can be a powerful antidote.

When we catch ourselves lashing out irrationally this holiday season, the first step is to breath, then reflect, and finally, get rid of that negative energy.  That's why taking action in the form of exercise is so valuable.  Whenever I'm really frustrated and out of my head, I know it's time to hit the trail, water or park for a good sweat session.

So, when you feel like punching Santa in the face this holiday season, think twice.  Get outside.  Do something awkward.  I promise it's more fun than the alternative.

Photo of the Week: Yellowstone

Just to let you know, I was riding a massive dinosaur when I took this shot.

Wipeout Wednesday: Zen from the Crowded North Shore

Yep, it's that time of year again-- as winter in the Northern Hemisphere is heats up, the entire professional surf world begins to descend upon the North Shore.  Just in time for the masses, our friends at the Surf Blog present: Wipeouts from Oahu!  Happy Humpday!

Part One: Painting Your Path with Drew Brophy

While scouring the web in search of art to fill the whiteness clinging to the walls of our new digs here in Sausalito, I expected a surf art exploration to be a straightforward and picture laden experience. What I found, however, is that the stories behind the brilliant hands producing the iconic paintings, images, and films that have shaped the surf industry, are as equally profound as their artistic pieces.

Three artists who conjure immense respect and have played hugely influential roles in shaping today's surf culture are Rick Griffin, John Severson and Drew Brophy.  Each artist hails from a drastically different background, yet all have made an impact that reaches far beyond the board weilding masses.  Their art has had widespread cultural implications, inspiring people across every class, demographic and location to seek more in whatever wave, liquid or otherwise, they happen upon next.

Moving in chronologic retrogression, from present to past, we look into the life of contemporary artist Drew Brophy.  Born in South Carolina, Brophy grew up obsessively surfing the fickle waves of the East Coast and painting boards in the downtime.  His talent was evident, yet when his highschool guidance counselor pulled him aside and sternly warned- “Drew, you can’t just surf and paint your whole life”,  he was crushed. 

Determined to prove her wrong, he moved to Hawaii in the early 90's, hell bent on chasing his dream of becoming a prefessional surfer.  Fueled by the money he scraped together selling his art, Brophy traveled around the globe, surfing some of the world's heaviest breaks, always with his paint pens close at hand.

His prowess for painting proved to be his real calling, when in 1996 he moved to San Clemente and began painting boards at Stewart.  Shortly thereafter he approached Matt Biolos of Lost to collaborate and it was here that things really took off.  The duo traveled the world shaping, painting and surfing, and soon he was being commissioned for premier event posters and private pieces of various kind.

This year Brophy took his art to new heights, staring in his own TV show The Paint Shop, in which he shares inspiration and techniques for those of us brave enough to put a skull or sparkle pony on our board.

To hear his full-story first hand, check out Drew in the videos below:








"It's a fabulous Ride, I can't wait to see what's next for me." ~Drew Brophy